Sicily: Rediscovering Southern Italy After 30 Years
Childhood Memories vs. Reality
My first trip to Southern Italy was in 1987. I was six years old, we only visited family in Calabria who didn’t speak English, and I missed every American comfort a kid could want. That trip stuck with me so much that I stayed away for 30 years.
In July 2019, everything changed. My cousins from Northern Italy lured me back with the promise of another island—not Calabria this time, but Sicily, about 300 kilometers away. The photos of crystal-clear water, fishing ports, and ancient streets looked like a world away from the small towns I remembered.
Arrival in Catania
After a long travel day, I landed in Catania, rented my humble 69-horsepower Fiat 500, and drove to my airbnb in Faraglioni di Acitrezza. Perched on the top floor, it had a balcony with a dining table, grill, and sweeping views of the rocky Catania coastline. Travel stress: gone.
And then—snacks. A café right below the apartment served affordable, dreamy Sicilian food:
Prosciutto and melon
Olive-oil–poached Sicilian tuna
Bruschetta with tomato and anchovies
Mozzarella with local olives
These were no ordinary tomatoes or anchovies—Sicily takes the crown for both.
A Feast at L’Oste Scuro
That night, Giorgio and Federico greeted me with beers and whisked me off to L’Oste Scuro, a classic trattoria with a patio overlooking a glowing cathedral. In true Italian fashion, Giorgio had already prepped the owner that his cousin was a “famous New York chef.”
He took the lead on ordering, and wave after wave of food arrived:
Grilled swordfish
Charred octopus
Caponata
Crispy calamari
Sweet local shrimp
Sicilian tuna crudo
Pasta alla Norma
Plenty of local wine
It was my first true Sicilian feast, and I was hooked.
Mt. Etna & Benanti Winery
The next day we drove up to see Mt. Etna—my first active volcano. The winding climb came with stunning views, but the real surprise was a call from my NYC friend Sal Rizzo (DeGustibus Cooking School) telling me to visit his favorite vineyard nearby.
Within hours, I was seated at Benanti Winery, welcomed by owner Antonio Benanti himself, enjoying a wine-paired lunch that showed just how underrated Southern Italian wines are. The Etna Rosso still stands out as one of the most unique reds I’ve ever had.
Dinner in Brucoli: I Rizzari
On Sal’s recommendation, we drove an hour to I Rizzari in Brucoli. The seaside trattoria lived up to the hype. I over-ordered (as usual), but one dish was unforgettable:
Spaghetti ai Ricci (Sea Urchin Pasta) – olive oil, garlic, and fresh Sicilian sea urchin. Pure, simple, and absolutely perfect.
Taormina: Ancient Glamour
We spent a lazy day at the rocky Catania beaches, then drove up to Taormina. The mix of Roman ruins, chic boutiques, and packed piazzas reminded me of Capri.
Highlights:
The ancient Greek-Roman theater, still hosting concerts (John Legend played the week I was there!).
Dinner at Vicolo Stretto, a Michelin-recommended restaurant hidden up a narrow alleyway. The standout dish: braised rabbit leg with Sicilian herbs, earthy and refined, reminding me of my childhood.
The Catania Fish Market
The next morning Giorgio got me out early to the La Pescheria Fish Market. By 8:30am it was alive with old fishermen shouting prices, selling tuna, sea bass, prawns, anchovies, and every imaginable catch.
I loaded up bags of fresh seafood, herbs, Calabrian red onions, Sicilian citrus, and mozzarella. That evening, I grilled a Fourth of July feast on the balcony—enough for twelve, though there were only four of us. As fireworks exploded in the distance, it felt like Sicily had fully welcomed me home.
Road Trip West: Mosaics, Salt Flats & Erice
The next leg was a 4.5-hour drive west to Palermo, with stops along the way:
Villa Romana del Casale – Roman aristocratic villa with breathtaking mosaics (including women in bikini-like outfits from 1,700 years ago!).
Trapani Salt Flats – historic salt pans still producing prized fiore di sale.
Erice – a medieval mountaintop town frozen in time.
Favignana: Paradise Found
Finally, we reached Favignana. Between stone quarries, turquoise coves, and golden beaches, this island might be one of the best beach destinations I’ve ever seen.
Must-visit beaches:
Lido Burrone – sandy, modern amenities.
Cala Rossa – dramatic cliffs, magical at sunset.
Cala Azzurra – for quick swims and photo ops.
Blue Marino – a hidden cave beach, my favorite of all.
Dining Highlights in Favignana
Albergo Ristorante Egadi – famous for its focaccia. The burrata, basil purée & cured tuna version blew my mind.
Tonnara di Favignana – a former tuna factory turned museum, a must for history and food lovers.
Il Giardino delle Aloe – my final Sicilian dinner. The star? Fritto Misto with calamari and baby red prawns, kissed with Sicilian honey, sea salt, and lemon. Outrageous.
Final Thoughts
Sicily is not a “one-and-done” destination. In 10 packed days, I barely scratched the surface. Between the food, wine, beaches, and deep sense of history, I know this is a place I’ll return to again and again.
Grazie to Giorgio, Margie, and Federico—for reconnecting me to my Southern Italian roots. I’ll never forget them again.
